Get up, dust off the dust, straighten the crown – Nyksund on the Vesteralen
If you want to revive abandoned areas today, you talk about them on social media under the keyword Lost Place. it won’t take long before people will flock here and repopulate the place. After all, a little attention has brought the former ghost village of Nyksund on Vesteralen in northern Norway back to life. We were currently here in Nyksund.
The classic Norwegian tourists tick off one sight after the other, the Lofoten are now definitely one of them. The abandoned fishing village of Nyksund on the Vesteralen, with its eventful history and the slow way back to life, is usually not on the list. We found our way here and met people who (re) discovered Nyksund for themselves.
They took care of this lonely village Nyksund, located in the polar climate zone, and motivated other people to come back to this enchanted but also inhospitable area. Today around 15 residents feel at home here and Nyksund is shared with around 40 day tourists. In the future, Nyksund will continue to be something for individualists and not for the classic crusaders who run through here with their selfi tripod taking photos and thus scare away the soul of this unique former fishing village Nyksund.
On the road to Nyksund / Vesteralen
On our big Norway tour we have firmly planned the Vesteralen, north of the Lofoten. But what places are we going to visit? Even with a three-month tour we have a busy schedule and so it is important to make a decision here too.
Nyksund is not at the top of the guidebooks and when I look at the big map, I understand it quickly. Because Nyksund is far away from the main road from Vesteralen to Andenes, the northernmost point of the archipelago.
From the main connection on the Vesteralen you have to drive about 60 kilometers away, through beautiful narrow gorges, small and larger villages and above all over a breathtaking narrow unpaved route, where you pray into the sea with the sight of the sometimes steep and craggy slope, that no vehicle comes towards you. The journey to Nyksund is therefore not for the faint of heart and also not for teams.
However, Nyksund is not advertised with superlatives either, the infrastructure to be expected is poor and the last few meters of the small former fishing village can only be reached on foot. We have seen many motorhomes turn again for precisely this reason, because who wants to get out of the car even in summer in sometimes icy and stormy weather.
So exactly the right thing for us Bulli drivers. We love to discover small places off the beaten path like Nyksund and like to be spared the usual tourist program. Above all, we love meeting people who live here, for example, here in the seclusion of the north, on the Vesteralen. So we take two days to get to know this small, yet authentic piece of northern Norway.
The way to Nyksund is already a goal
Even the way over the Vesteralen to Nyksund is a great destination. The provisionally maintained path leads along the spectacular coast with its numerous archipelago. Thrill is guaranteed .. Again and again we discover the mountains covered with snow on the horizon.
Just one more curve and another piece along the abyss, the view opens up to this lonely pearl, to this deserted fishing village of the Vesteralen. We get out and listen to these arctic sounds, a mixture of seagull song, wind and waves. Even if we live by the sea, such sounds are only available on relaxation CD or here, in this magical place Nyksund. Freezing cold, the stormy arctic wind blows mercilessly in our faces in June.
The thermometer rarely rises above ten degrees Celsius here. About half a kilometer before Nyksund is over, then it only helps to park your car in the stony parking lot and walk to the small town of Nyksund.
Arrived in Nyksund
In the small center of Nyksund with its narrow paths there is sawing and drilling. We discover life even in the most abandoned building. Between the apparent ruins, small bistros, galleries and hostels open their doors, and the small boat harbor is moored again to cast off for fishing. On the buildings of Nyksund the story of the former residents is told on boards with signs,
The wind is slowly subsiding, the last few days we had experienced wind force 10 and above on the Vesteralen. We had to keep the pop-up roof of our Bulli closed. We can’t even imagine what to expect here in winter. Or is it? The attraction is there to be here even in the hottest time of the year and to understand why people left this place, but not without admiring them, that this is exactly where they were at home and that they are increasingly coming back to it.