The Kongsfjord -Veines peninsula in Finnmark: The silence of beauty

On the way to the Ice Sea Road to Berlevåg we come through the small fishing village of Kongsfjord (Finnmark). Not that we spontaneously fell in love with this small fishing village, its arctic beauty increases in the Veines peninsula, only a few hundred meters away, which is best known for the former coastal fort of the German armed forces, Veinesodden. But instead of getting excited about old war material, we can hardly take our eyes off the beautiful side of Veines.

We drive on our long Norway tour along the Barents Sea. Numerous large and small peninsulas protrude into the Arctic Sea. Narrow and sometimes winding roads lead us through a modest and overwhelming landscape that takes our breath away. Behind a bend, the view opens onto the small fishing village of Kongsfjord (Finnmark), which we leave after a long stay. Immediately to the north, as you leave the village, our gaze falls on the beautiful little peninsula Veines and Veinesodden and we decide to stop here on the way back from Berlevåg. Today we are here and don’t want to leave.

Veines, the peninsula in the immediate, northern, neighborhood is only a few hundred meters from the arctic sea road to Berlevåg. The ice sea road begins here in Kongsfjord and so Veines is already the second highlight on the tour north in the first few 100 meters.

The arctic sea road alone is one of the most beautiful streets in the world in our eyes, but the few small towns and the barren and bizarre landscapes are lined up like a string of pearls.

We turn into Veines, which belongs to Kongsfjord (Finnmark), and Veinesodden. We leave the car at the junction at the front; Veines is a shame to be parked and thus destroy the picturesque silhouette. This peninsula with its Veines and Veinesodden is too beautiful not to be experienced on foot, not to be breathed and felt. The peninsula is very easy to explore on foot, at its widest point it is 1,100 meters wide and a total of only 2.7 kilometers long.

Bird watchers in particular are drawn to Veines, but also those who are interested in war, who are looking for traces of the Second World War to visit the German Wehrmacht’s coastal battery on Veinesodden.

After all, Kongsfjord and Veines were miraculously spared from being burned down and bombed, most places in Finnmark were mercilessly razed to the ground by the German Wehrmacht. Perhaps some German soldiers and officers in Veines and Kongsfjord still had some kind of residual understanding that they would not leave this beauty behind as scorched earth.

We walk along the path paved with sand to the center of the small vein and come to the small housing estate with about 15 houses. In the old warehouse we find art made from finds from the sea and nature. The old landing stage in Veines is a reminder of days gone by, when fishing played the main role in this small port.

From Veines several paths lead to the Veinesodden, on the western part of which the said coastal battery is located. Of course, lazy feet can get there in their car, but that doesn’t necessarily go down well with the people who live here. They are reserved and they value reserved people. A walk through this rough and barren landscape conveys the surroundings much more intensely. The paths are completely unsuitable for teams and motorhomes.

The paths lead from Veines to the three hills, the 79 meter high Vesterhaugen, the 60 meter high Midterhaugen and south through the 83 meter high Storhaugen. These hills also give the small town of Veines and its port natural protection against the often stormy and troubled Barents Sea. On the south side of Veinesodden there is a small beacon to protect the fishermen, but to reach it you have to climb a five meter high ladder on a rock face. However, at the same time, on the other side, it descends more than 20 meters into the sea.

In the summer months the reindeer like to wander between the hills and enjoy the fresh grass. But also, that applies to Norway as a whole, people like to be outside at every opportunity. It must be storming and raining for them to stay in their homes. Often they meet in one of the depressions, make a campfire and grill their fish or they enjoy the soft and gentle sandy beach on their doorstep. Even though the water here doesn’t get warmer than four degrees Celsius.

Those who climb the heights are rewarded with a fantastic view over the extensive Kongsfjorden and the bird islands Helløy, Kongsøy and Skarvholmen in the east and the islands of Rundholmen and Grøtøy in the Risfjorden in the north.

In any case, we will come back to Veines, Veinesodden and Kongsfjord if at all possible, maybe even once in winter when the sea is rough and the landscape is dark and covered in snow. Maybe we will spend the night here in Veines, in the lovely family guest house  kongsfjord-gjestehus.no

Leave a Comment